In recent years Uppada's soaring popularity has led people to back track to its root learn about the creation process of this sarees .The weaving technique is called Jamdani, which is age old technique. Yet after so much research and writings, people still get lured into the tale of jamdani's history, like they get lured into an old folktale, over and over again.
The fabric itself is hypnotic. One can stare at the intricacy of the motifs for hours and still be unable to grasp the amount of patience, work and time needed to create it. During early 19th century the production of expensive jamdani suffered set back. The most important cause of decline and the ultimate extinction of the Jamdani industry was the industrial revolution in England, which introduced modern inventions in manufacture machine-made Jamdani with the support of jacquard and soon it began to capture the world market for jamdani. This old weaving technique has been re-introduced in Uppada during the year 1988 by Ghanshyam Sarode, a textile designer. And thus a new BRAND has been created. i.e. "Uppada Sarees" which took almost a whole one decade, and now the people are fond of the sarees.
Jamdani weaves were amongst most prized contribution to the rich textile heritage of India. The various historical references to the superb quality and the high-esteem in which these fabrics were held, are too numerous to elucidate though it can be said that they form part of some of the most valued textiles in collections all over the world. The Victoria and Albert Museum of London have a fine collection of jamdanis. The saris with their distinct decorative patterns,seem to hold an especially high status in the society. Being the work of two people in couple of months, the price for a Jamdani sari lies well above the ordinary weaves of the saree, and one of the costliest sarees.
The saris with their distinct decorative patterns,seem to hold an especially high status in the society. Being the work of two people in couple of months, the price for a Jamdani sari lies well above the ordinary weaves of the saree, and one of the costliest sarees.
1. Jamdani weaving technique with pattern of the design drawn on paper:
Woven on a simple frame or pit looms. The pattern of the design drawn on paper is pinned beneath the warp threads and as the weaving proceeds; the designs are worked in like embroidery. When the weft thread approaches close to where a flower or other figure has to be inserted, the weaver takes up on of a set of bamboo needles round each of which is wrapped yarn of a different color as needed for the design. As every weft of woof thread passes through the warp. He sews down the intersected portion of the pattern with one or another of the needles as might be required, and so continues till the pattern is completed. Very often, two persons work together on a sari. Traditionally, jamdanis were white of fine cotton, with designs in bleached white.
2. Jamdani woven with the help of jala :
Jamdani traditionally woven in Uppada refers to an extremely fine fabric cotton or zari brocading on cotton fabric. Here, two weavers work on a single loom where the design on paper, kept underneath the warp, is used as a guide in placing the cut threads, according to the design, over the warp. These are, then, interlaced into the warp with fine bamboo sticks in a zigzag manner to form the motif. This is followed by the weft thread, the process being repeated before the shuttle carrying the weft is thrown across again.
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